Many cosmetics are advertised as free of sulfates, silicones or parabens as a guarantee of quality and respect for the skin and the environment. But are they really as bad as they are painted? The truth is that they have fallen out of favor with the rise of green or organic cosmetics, which calls for a return to natural ingredients. As always, the key is prudence.
What are parabens and what are they for?
Also known as parabens, they are chemical compounds widely used as preservatives in cosmetics because they are cheap and a small amount is needed to be effective. They are in second place after water as the most used ingredient in formulations. Many of them are allowed by the cosmetics legislation in Europe, provided they are used in the right concentration. Their mission is to keep bacteria in cosmetics at bay and to ensure that they work properly for the time indicated on the packaging.
- The controversy. According to experts, a cosmetic without preservatives would have a maximum life of one month and would need to be stored in the refrigerator. But why are parabens in particular so controversial? According to the Organization of Consumers and Users, OCU, some are under suspicion because they can alter the hormonal balance of the bodyif they remain on the skin (body creams and lotions) for several hours. As a precaution, those listed as butylparaben and propylparaben should be avoided. On the contrary, the following parabens are considered to be safe and effective - used in the permitted proportions, a maximum of 0.4%: methylparaben and ethylparaben. At a much lower concentration, 0.14%, the parabens butylparaben and proylparaben are also accepted as stable preservatives without health problems. Take a good look at the label!
- Formulas with and without parabens. Considering its wide use in the cosmetic industry, the allergic incidence is relatively low compared to other preservatives. But, given the controversy of its use and the reluctance of many consumers, many brands have chosen not to include parabens in their formulation and use other preservatives that, although they reduce toxicity to the maximum, are not as effective against microorganisms that can contaminate the cosmetic. Many laboratories mix various preservatives, other than parabens, to obtain a safe formula, advising that the product be used in a maximum period of 6 months. Airless containers (with a dispenser, so that air does not enter) also minimize the risk of product contamination.
- eye! There are some alternatives to parabens that are not 100% safe either. Preservatives such as essential oils or polyols can be effective against bacteria, but not against fungi. And in many cases, large amounts are needed to be stable, which can end up causing allergies and irritations.
What are sulfates and what are they for?
They are chemical compounds that are used mainly as cleansing agents for the skin and hair. The bad reputation of these surfactants (agents responsible for generating foam in the final product) is that they can irritate and dehydrate the skin, but the truth is that they are the ones that best remove oil.
Be cautious. If you use them in moderation, ensuring that they have a low concentration - or that they do not exceed the limit regulated by law - and do not rub excessively, they do not have to be harmful to your facial hygiene or when washing your hair, according to most cosmetologists and pharmacists. They consider it that way because they are usually mixed with other ingredients that counteract the chances of irritation. The important thing is to be clear about what your hair is like and what type of shampoo is the best for you. Let yourself be advised by your hairdresser.
The most common. Here are some of the more common sulfate names that appear in cosmetic products: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Thriethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate, or Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate.
And if your skin or scalp are very sensitive. It is best to resort, in the case of hair, for example, to washing creams. Their "problem" is that they do not foam and many consumers feel that they do not clean thoroughly. In the case of facial cleansers, you can also do without synthetic surfactants or sulfates and resort to natural ones, which do not sensitize the skin (such as Coco Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside or Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate).
What are silicones and what are they for?
They are polymers made primarily of silicon that are used in many cosmetic formulations as a conductive or "softening" agent. It is very common in hair products such as shampoos, conditioners and masks. In the case of color cosmetics, it is very common in make-up bases and primers.
- Its benefits in hair are that they prevent frizz, facilitate styling, add volume and shine and, included in styling products, cover the hair fiber to protect it from heat.
- What works against it is that it can weigh down hair (especially greasy ones) or cause dehydration. This can happen if they are not removed or cleaned properly from the hair (conditioners, for example). Keep in mind that by creating an insulating layer on the hair fiber, it can prevent the ingredients of other products (keratin, oils) from penetrating. In addition, it can cause irritation in very sensitive scalps.
- In makeup , when they are included in textures, they facilitate their application, soften the skin's texture, extend the life of the products and optically help to hide pores and fill in wrinkles.
- The disadvantages are that its prolonged use can cause occlusion, that the skin does not breathe well and in sensitive skin pimples appear. It is very important to choose the cream based on the needs of your skin. Prioritize.
What you have to be very clear about is that it is in no case a repairing ingredient, both on the hair and on the face only temporarily help to improve the visual appearance of both. If you do not have very sensitive skin or allergy problems, you can occasionally use products with silicone to facilitate the styling of your curls, for example, or prolong the duration of your makeup. The case is to clean in depth later so that no remains are left, which can harm the hair or skin.
