I don't know if it happens to you, but since I have mature skin, I look with some skepticism at all the makeup techniques that involve putting a lot of product on my face. The lack of firmness, together with the law of gravity, makes the skin look heavy and the lines of expression accentuated, that's why when I see those contouring tutorials with faces crossed by multicolored lines, like a bengal tiger, that of a brush they become a face with sculpted cheeks and a clear forehead, I can't help but look at them suspiciously …
This technique is not an invention of Kim Kardashian and it has been used by professional makeup artists for more than fifty years, so I wanted to give it a try and after documenting myself and watching several tutorials, and taking advantage of the fact that I am at home, I have been able to verify that contouring, well done, makes my makeup look brighter and my face rejuvenated . I am going to share with you tricks and products that have worked for me, I hope I can help you with my experience.
What you should never do
Street contouring has nothing to do with photography. Scott Barnes, one of the most famous contourists in the world, Jennifer López's personal makeup artist, confesses in his tutorials that if you see one of her makeup live, you may be scared, as you can see in this image of the Latin super star. The face looks very artificial, since it is designed to work under the strong lights of the spotlights and to be seen through a camera. So if you want your contouring to work over short distances, avoid very thick products that dull the skin, very light products that look fake and those that have a lot of shine that look artificial. As in almost everything, in moderation is the secret of success
Before starting…
It is very important to prepare a good canvas on which to "work the magic" with your contouring. The first thing you have to try to achieve is that your makeup base is the closest color to your skin, if your face looks artificial before even starting to apply the products, nothing good will come of that. You will know that you are right if after applying the base of your makeup on your face the color of it is the same as that of your neck.
It is also essential that the concealer you choose to illuminate the areas you want to enhance is not too light. The ideal is a couple of shades less than that of your base to avoid the dreaded panda bear effect in your dark circles or that traces of color are appreciated on your face. Last but not least, is to choose an eye contour with a cold undertone, that is, that is a grayish brown instead of gold, so that when blending it, it gives a better shadow effect.
Once these three basic requirements are met, let's get down to business!
I don't know if it happens to you, but since I have mature skin, I look with some skepticism at all the makeup techniques that involve putting a lot of product on my face. The lack of firmness, together with the law of gravity, makes the skin look heavy and the lines of expression accentuated, that's why when I see those contouring tutorials with faces crossed by multicolored lines, like a bengal tiger, that of a brush they become a face with sculpted cheeks and a clear forehead, I can't help but look at them suspiciously …
This technique is not an invention of Kim Kardashian and it has been used by professional makeup artists for more than fifty years, so I wanted to give it a try and after documenting myself and watching several tutorials, and taking advantage of the fact that I am at home, I have been able to verify that contouring, well done, makes my makeup look brighter and my face rejuvenated . I am going to share with you tricks and products that have worked for me, I hope I can help you with my experience.
What you should never do
Street contouring has nothing to do with photography. Scott Barnes, one of the most famous contourists in the world, Jennifer López's personal makeup artist, confesses in his tutorials that if you see one of her makeup live, you may be scared, as you can see in this image of the Latin super star. The face looks very artificial, since it is designed to work under the strong lights of the spotlights and to be seen through a camera. So if you want your contouring to work over short distances, avoid very thick products that dull the skin, very light products that look fake and those that have a lot of shine that look artificial. As in almost everything, in moderation is the secret of success
Before starting…
It is very important to prepare a good canvas on which to "work the magic" with your contouring. The first thing you have to try to achieve is that your makeup base is the closest color to your skin, if your face looks artificial before even starting to apply the products, nothing good will come of that. You will know that you are right if after applying the base of your makeup on your face the color of it is the same as that of your neck.
It is also essential that the concealer you choose to illuminate the areas you want to enhance is not too light. The ideal is a couple of shades less than that of your base to avoid the dreaded panda bear effect in your dark circles or that traces of color are appreciated on your face. Last but not least, is to choose an eye contour with a cold undertone, that is, that is a grayish brown instead of gold, so that when blending it, it gives a better shadow effect.
Once these three basic requirements are met, let's get down to business!
Corrects the rictus
Corrects the rictus
To hide the nasolabial fold, the dreaded puppet lines, make the gesture of smiling and draw a line with a concealer a couple of shades lighter than the tone of your makeup in the crease that forms from your nose to the mouth. Apply it with a very fine brush and smudge slightly with small touches of the finger so as not to displace it. With a stick contour a couple of shades darker than your skin, apply two points in the jaw area, where the rictus of your mouth makes that area sag a little.
Smoother forehead
Smoother forehead
To achieve a botox effect with your contouring, draw with your highlighter a half moon that is based on the beginning of your two eyebrows and create a semicircle that covers the brow. Also draw two thin vertical lines on your forehead from the beginning of the peak of your eyebrow to the hairline and blend with your finger.
Wake up your look
Wake up your look
If you want to rejuvenate your look, in addition to covering your dark circles as you usually do, apply corrector in an ascending strip on the temples. You will see that by illuminating that sunken area your face has a more youthful and youthful appearance. As always, blend the contours well for a natural result.
More radiant skin
More radiant skin
On days when I see my face a little more withered - yes, these days are much more common now - a trick that works for me is to apply a point of concealer under the cheekbone, where the cheek sinks, with my finger also a horizontal stripe in the crease of the chin. Do these steps right after foundation and before proceeding with blush and bronzer, you will notice that your face looks more "plump" and luminous.
Disguise the bags?
Disguise the bags?
It is quite a tricky subject, since the volumes are impossible to remove, but you can reduce the appearance of the bags if you treat them correctly. Do not make the mistake of applying a lighter concealer, as you would with an under eye, because the only thing you will achieve is that the volume is accentuated. Your goal should be for the area to be exactly the same color as the rest of the face, so apply the same foundation. If you see that you need it, apply a second thin coat of the same product to gain some coverage. This is only possible if your base is modular, that is, its coverage increases by adding more layers, and if it is not very dense, because you run the risk that the area will be loaded. Finally, with a precision brush,Draw a very fine line with a light concealer in the crease that creates volume and blend it with small touches with your finger.
Disguise the double chin
Disguise the double chin
The dreaded double chin is another thing you can hide. Apply a stick bronzer to the sagging area and blend with your fingers, then with a powder bronzer and a large brush, apply a thin layer of powder all over the neck to the chin profile. To compensate for the tan on your neck and not look too artificial, also apply powdered bronzer around the forehead, at the hairline.
Now that you know all my tricks …
Now that you know all my tricks …
Now that I've given you a few tricks, you can start practicing contouring at home . Thus, as soon as the quarantine is over, you can put it into practice and show off your professional makeup. I also take the opportunity to share with you my favorite products to contour at home, keep reading!
Sephora
€ 24.95Moisturizing concealer
The light texture of this Benefit makes it ideal when you want to illuminate a slightly large area such as the temples or the chin, it also does not crease, so it is ideal to not emphasize the wrinkles.
Lookfantastic
€ 11.95Gel contouring stick
This one from Illamasqua is ideal for its cool undertone and creamy texture to redefine your facial oval.
Lookfantastic
Contour powders
When you want to cover large areas, like the neck, it is best to opt for a powder and a large brush to build a more subtle veil. These from Pixie have the perfect shade and a very easy to apply texture. Powders are also essential to seal the cream concealer that you have applied if you want to increase its durability. My advice is to take very little product and shake the brush before bringing it to your face. You are always in time to apply more. If you go too much, take another completely clean brush to blend the area.
Lookfantastic
€ 22.95Contouring brush
A finite brush is essential to make precise corrections such as the bags, the rictus or in the forehead to raise the eyebrow. This cat tongue shape allows you to use it flat for larger areas and in profile for finer lines.
Lookfantastic
€ 28.45Cream concealer
I like to always have a creamier and more covering concealer to apply in very small areas. This one from Nars has a perfect coverage and texture, it can be applied both with a brush and with your finger.
Sephora
€ 47.95Moisturizing stick makeup
One way to achieve a more natural contouring is to replace the heavier and more covering texture of the concealer and the contour with a foundation stick that is lighter than your skin and another that is dark. I love this one from Hourglass for its triangular shape, which makes its application easier and more precise.
Sephora
€ 23.95Moisturizing tanning stick
This Milk bronzer is creamy, but matte and looks very natural on the face. It is very easy to blend and lasts a long time. I use it when I want to sculpt my face quickly and subtly, ideal for the summer when you don't want to use makeup base.
Lookfantastic
€ 22.95Concealer and contouring palette
This NYX palette is very practical for me because I have in one palette, concealers and contours of various shades. It is perfect to take on a trip and ideal for your basic cosmetic kit.